How to sight in a rifle and scope - with only 3 shots
Normally, a rifle is "zeroed" by using the sight (crosshairs) as fixed and the impact of the rifle is maneuvered to the sight.
What if this tactic is reversed, and the impact area is "fixed"? Can the scope crosshairs be maneuvered to zero with the impact area? Can this be done and what are the implications?
Many times I have watched people shoot a group of shots and then tried to make an adjustment to move the "group" to the center of a target. By doing this, I have watched some hunters empty a box of 20 rounds and still not be "zeroed in". Even thinking about this lightens my wallet. Below is an alternative method for sighting in a rifle or shotgun (slug). If this is the first sighting in for a new scope or after a scope re-mount, try this method. It is so easy, it may surprise you. This technique will save you many rounds of ammunition, a bit of money, and some time. It is assumed that you have a shooting bench or table, a gun rest of some sort, and the ability and marksmanship to shoot very tight groups at 50 yards, or more. By "tight groups" I mean that you should be able to put two bullets touching or within a 1/4 to 1/2 inch at 50 yards. Hint, hint: a spotting scope always comes in handy when sighting in a rifle. If you can borrow one, do it. I mean no disrespect to anyone but if at 50 yards you normally fire three shots and they land two to three inches apart, then this method of sighting in a rifle will not work well, nor will any other method. Marksmanship is a must. Each shot in this three shot process must be perfect, as you will soon see why.
Are there any experienced shooters in the crowd? This method of zeroing a rifle does go against conventional wisdom about sighting in a rifle. Normally it is said in scope instruction booklets that you try to make adjustments to move the PoI (point of impact, i.e. bullet hole) to the target center. This is NOT so with this "3-shot" method.
With this "3-shot" method you will want to move the crosshairs of the scope to the point-of-impact and this is opposite of conventional thinking.
Trust me. You want to move the crosshairs to the point of impact, not to move the point of impact to the center of the target. Think of it this way: with the conventional method, if you try to move the point of impact to the center, with each shot, you will not know where the bullet will go so you shoot to find out. Not so with this method. You already know where the PoI is so you move the crosshairs to it! The result is an easier "zero" to get and maintain.
Scope Preparation - Assuming the scope is mounted properly, we need to set the crosshairs in the middle of their range. Turn the windage all the way to one side, right or left, and crank the elevation up or down all the way. Then, using a coin or screwing instrument, count the number of half turns it takes to get to the other side of the scope's range. Do this for both the windage and elevation. Once you know the total number of turns, then move the crosshair in the oposite direction one-half of the number of turns. It is important to get the crosshairs in the center of the scope's range. I highly recommend this step. I prefer a one-piece base of the Redfield or Leupold design. With this design, you have the ability to adjust the windage with the screws on the rear base. I use these screws to set the windage to within 1/4 inch at 25 yards and when I back out to 100 yards I make any windage fine tuning with the clicks of the windage scope adjustment. With a Weaver style mount you will be limited to the windage adjustment on the scope for any adjustments.
Once this is done, it is time to have some fun. Wear your hearing and eye protection! Set the target up at the distance of your choice. I usually start at 25 yards. You must be close enough for the first shot to land on the target paper. If it doesn't, then move closer and fire a second shot.
First Shot - Make it a perfect shot! Shoot the first shot at the center of the target because the bullet may be off by a lot, or a little, which is fine. Find the bullet hole and make the initial windage adjustment with the screws on the base(s), not the scope. If you adjust the windage at 25 yards with the scope adjustments, then you may end up moving the windage cross hair way outside of its medium adjustment area. You will use the scope adjustments at a greater distance. I have found that a 1/4 turn of the windage screw will move the scope view about one-half inch at 25 yards. Now you see why it was important to place the viewfinders in the center of their range before starting. If you were at the edge when you started then you would be out of luck if you had to move the crosshair beyond that point. Plus, you now have plenty of room for adjustments over the coming years, if you should need it. You do not need to get the windage exact with the first windage adjustment, assuming that you use the windage screws on the base. But you do want to get to within an inch (preferably) because if the windage is off 1 inch at 25 yards then it will be off 4 inches at 100 yards. That is quite a bit.
Which way do you move the windage screw (rear of the scope)? You want to make all adjustments to move the scope to the PoI! So, if your first bullet went to the left, you will want to move the view of the scope only and not windage crosshair of the scope to the left. You do this by turning in on the left screw on the rear base. This will move the rear of the scope to the right and will enable you to view more to the left, at the PoI. If your shot went to the right, then turn in on the right rear screw and this would move the rear of the scope to the left, thus moving the scope crosshair to the right. The left and right side of the scope referred to here will be considered as if you were looking into the scope and down the barrel toward the muzzle. On this first shot, go ahead and make the elevation adjustment. To make this adjustment it really is imperative to have some kind of a rifle vise-type rest, one that will hold the rifle very steady and still. If you do not have one, you will just have to hold the rifle steady in your gunrest of choice. In describing this, you do not have to "freeze" the rifle. You can lay it down, take a break, etc. But you want to point the crosshairs to the center of the target and move the elevation crosshair to the same elevation as the first impact area. Hold the gun steady and move the crosshair to the desired spot. To do this you will need to turn the adjustment in the opposite direction that is indicated on the scope. Remember we are not moving the PoI, we are doing the opposite. It is best to turn the coin quickly and not slowly. Coins work better as they are more easily handled. If the coin adjustment does not move the crosshair very far, then mentally mark where it does go. Then take another breath, get another focus, aim for where you made your last adjustment, not the center of the target, and make another elevation adjustment. If you have a second person to help you out, it can make things easier, but I sight in my own rifles with no problem, and no helpers. You have now fired one shot and made two scope adjustments, windage and elevation, at 25 yards. If the first shot was "perfect", or close to it, and your adjustments are close to accurate, the second shot should surprise you.
With a little experience you can actually sight in your scope with one shot, zero it in with the second shot, and hunt with the third shot. But let's stick with 3 shots.
Second Shot - Move the target back to 50 or 100 yards. Aim for the center of the target and fire. At 100 yards, I suggest that you use the adjustments on the scope to adjust windage, not the screws on the base(s). This is because if you are within an inch or two. It will only need 8 clicks, more or less, to finish the zero. If you are 4 inches or more out, better use the screws on the base. It is my personal preference to keep the crosshairs near their medium within their range of motion. Only once since when I began to use this 3-shot method was I off by 3 inches at 100 yards. If I told you the truth, I am usually within 1 to 2 inches at 100 yards on my second shot. You will quickly get the hang of this 3-shot method. A little practice and a lot of faith will get you results. Make the necessary scope adjustments from shot #2.
Third Shot - Fire a third shot at 100 yards or back it on out to 300+ yards. If you fire a perfect shot with good fundamentals of marksmanship, then the shot will be right on the mark, guaranteed. If you back the distance out to 300 yards, or more, then go back to the conventional way of sighting in the scope. This is because at this distance it only takes a click or two to "zero" the scope and it is hard to actually see the movement of the crosshairs due to the small size of the target. So at farther distances, remember to adjust with the conventional method of sighting in a scope.
The most important aspect of this sighting in method is the ability to fire a "perfect" shot. Perfect meaning that the shot is fired using a correct sight picture, proper trigger squeeze, and correct follow through, with each shot! You can tell the shot is "perfect" when you know where the bullet hits before looking at the target. The days of firing a "group" of shots and then moving the group to the center of the target are over, for me. This is wasteful and expensive. I fire on average about 10 rounds a year. This is for verifying the "zero" on two hunting weapons, and for taking about 4-5 animals a year. "Animals" includes but is not limited to deer, coyotes, etc. The importance of marksmanship in Responsible Hunting can't be overstated. To me, the thought of someone firing a projectile and not knowing where it will impact is unimaginable. As of this writing, the North Carolina Wildlife Resources Commission is seeking input from the public for public shooting ranges on its properties across the state. If this occurs then many people, including me, will have the opportunity to improve their marksmanship.
There is a certain feeling of accomplishment when you purchase your equipment, mount your own scope, and make that perfect shot. It is easier said than done.
Before this past hunting season, I brought out my two favorite rifles and I verified that each was zeroed-in. The first was my favorite: a Remington Model 700 bolt action in .270 Win caliber. Both shots were at a range of 100 yards. I made a minor adjustment in between the two shots. The result was:
The second rifle was my least used but always available, Remington 700 in 7mm Magnum caliber. This rifle had not been shot in at least four years. It took 3 shots to make it hunting ready:
Notice that the second shot went a little low.  I did what I warned you not to do above. I was mentally moving the crosshairs to the PoI so I turned the crosshairs in the direction of down when I should have been turning the adjustment in the direction of "up" for a few clicks. The shot wasn't a total waste as I got the windage right 
With the increased popularity of digital cameras and computers, I welcome your results to be shown and displayed on this website. Let us know how it worked for you!
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